So, I'm using the paper pattern i mentioned below. When I measured my finished smocked panel against the central pattern piece, I could see I was about 3/4" short. So, I added 3/4" to the side panel of the paper pattern when I cut it out (to the entire length of the inside seam). Then, I sewed the central panel to the two side seams, leaving about 1/2 " from the top unsewn so I could finish it off. Then, I sewed front to back and set in the sleeves.
You can see that my back shoulder seams no longer fit to my front shoulder seams. I made them match at the sleeves, and recut the neckline of the back to fit to the front.
I'm going to finish the entire neckline using double fold bias tape, so I cut 1/4" from the entire neckline (back and front). Then I sewed on the bias tape using a 1/4 " seam.
You can see that I sewed the bias tape down about 1" past the top of the center panel. Then I pressed the tape to the inside of the neck line and top stitched to keep it in place. I sewed up the bottom and sleeve hems.
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